Contents

Preparing for Your New Dog

Before They Arrive…

Their Arrival…. From Romania

First Few Hours in the Home…

First Day and Beyond…

After Week One…

Once the Dog is Settled…

Things to Remember

Toilet Training Your New Rescue

Introducing Your Dog to Their New Harness

Safe Feeding: Fruits & Vegetables

Preparing for Your New Dog

Before They Arrive…

Prepare the Garden: make sure to move all chairs, tables, rubbish bins, planters etcetera far away from the fences since these can be used by a scared dog as a launch pad to aid escape. If you have a cat flap fitted, ensure that it is kept locked, or the dog is not able to access this. It is amazing the small spaces a dog can fit through if it feels scared.

Prepare your home: remove any clutter or anything a dog might chew. Think about where in the home you are going to put the dog once it arrives; create a quiet, safe space. You should also take up any rugs you don’t want spoiled. If you have laminate/wooden floors, a dog may struggle with the slipperiness of the surface to begin with, so put down old towels and sheets until the dog is housetrained. Puppy pads will also be useful in the first few weeks.

Insurance: you can get a policy in place before the dog arrives. Unless otherwise stated, all of our dogs are cross breeds, with no identifiable breed dominance.

Vet: register your dog with your vet. Once your dog has arrived, Stray2Me will re-register the chip details to your address, and you should receive an email from Pettrac informing you of this within a few days/weeks. Once you have the passport, contact your vet and give them the microchip number. Before you take your dog for their first walk, phone your vet and ask them to search the microchip number and check that it has, indeed, been registered.

This is a helpful article to read before the dog arrives, explaining trigger stacking:

http://woofliketomeet.com/2016/03/trigger-stacking-how-we-set-our-dogs-up-to-fail/

We have created a list of things you may wish to purchase before the arrival of your dog. Some things are a necessity, and others may be beneficial to aid the settling period of your new arrival.

If you purchase through Amazon, please use Amazon Smile (smile.amazon.co.uk) and choose Stray2Me Rescue as your charity. That way we get a small donation each time you shop. You can also sign up to support us if you shop through Easyfundraising. You will be helping us to help more Strays, at no extra cost to yourself.

Items you MUST purchase:

General Advice: When the dog first arrives with you, s/he will likely have an upset stomach due to the stress of the journey and the transition between foods from the shelter and on the transport. To help the dog’s stomach to settle, we advise a bland diet of boiled chicken and pasta/rice/sweet potato for the first few days, until their stool is firm. Once their stomach is settled, you can then begin slowly introducing the diet you will be feeding them. To avoid their stomachs becoming upset from the food transition, start by adding small amounts of their dog food into the chicken and pasta/rice/sweet potato mixture, increasing this over the course of a week until their food is solely dog food. Make sure to keep an eye on their stool, some dogs may need a trial-and-error system of some foods before finding the food they are most happy and healthy on. Grain free is always best, with a high protein content.

Items you may WISH to purchase:

Good Quality Brand Examples:

  • Chappie – original, tinned. Can often ease an upset stomach.
  • Pouch and Mutt – Calm & Relaxed
  • Harrington’s
  • Nature’s Menu raw
  • Nature’s Menu – You can also use Nature’s Menu Mighty Mixer for baulk, added to the raw or wet food, rather than use a complete dry food.
  • Burns
  • Forthglade

Natural, Raw Foods:

All should be fed in moderation –

  • Carrot
  • Apple (but not the pips, they are toxic)
  • Peas
  • Sweet potato
  • Broccoli
  • Spinach
  • Raspberries
  • Blueberries
  • Pineapple
  • Live ‘bio’ yoghurt: use in moderation if you are having to give antibiotics for any reason.

Natural Chews & Training Treats:

  • Cheese / Sausages: Use sparingly, they are fattening, but good for building trust in the early days
  • Yaks milk chews
  • Antlers
  • Dried sprats
  • Dried tripe
  • Goats’/rabbits’ ears (pigs’ ears, but can be a bit rich)
  • Beef tails
  • Chickens’ feet
  • Nyla bones are also meant to be good for chewing and supposedly indestructible.

Billy No Mates – recommended in lots of groups on Facebook. Herbal remedy. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Billy-Mates-Supplement-NATURALLY-Effectively/dp/B007RC30BU/

Medipaq Flea trap – https://smile.amazon.co.uk/ULTIMATE-TRAPS-Medipaq-Sticky-Discs/dp/B0043R2Q3U/

Their Arrival…. From Romania

  • If the dog is being delivered to your home

…At some point during the process of handover, your driver will scan your dog and make sure the microchip matches the passport.

…The driver will hand you the passport and some other paperwork. We would advise having a carrier bag with you so that the paperwork can be put in the bag before you are handed the dog.

…You must have a slip lead to hand to the drivers. The driver will take this, go into the back of the van, and put this on your dog, and then bring the dog out to you. It is so important that you grip the slip lead tight until you are safely inside your home with the doors secured. If you are able to, carry the dog into your home to help prevent them trying to escape. If it is preferred, you can use a crate to get your dog into the home. Again, the driver of the transport will secure your dog in the crate, and you should then carry them in like this, and only open the door of the crate once the house is secure. It is always advisable to have two adults available during this time in case the dog panics and you need some support. Make sure to take the dog straight into the house, do not take them into the garden or allow them to sniff around outside.

  • If you are picking the dog up from a collection point

… You must have a slip lead to hand to the drivers. The driver will take this, go into the back of the van, and put this on your dog, and then bring the dog out to you. It is so important that you grip the slip lead tight until you are safely inside your vehicle with the doors secured. Preferably, you will have a crate that can be secured in your car. Again, you should give the crate to the driver of the transport, who will secure your dog in the crate, and you should then carry this crate and secure it in the car. This is preferred as it ensures the dog is safe, and the crate can then be carried into the home upon arrival. If you do not have a crate, then you will need to be able to secure the dog in the car in a different way. This could be done using a harness and seatbelt clip, for example. We strongly advise the use of a crate in this instance, as many dogs will never have had a harness or lead attached, and may become very frightened when being handled to do this. It is a legal requirement for a dog to be secured in a car, so make sure you have a clear plan to ensure the dog is safe before the transport arrives. It is always advisable to have two adults available during this time in case the dog panics and you need some support. If the journey from your collection point back to your home is quite long, we advise taking a small container of water and some old towels or sheets. The dog is likely to make a mess during this time, so this helps the clean-up.

First Few Hours in the Home…

Take the dog straight into the room where their bed/crate is, and give them space. They may choose to hide or remain frozen to the spot you put them in, this is ok, they need time to decompress from the stress of their journey and acclimatise to their new environment. Do not crowd them, force affection on them, or force meetings between other pets or people in the home. It is advisable to put down a small bowl of water and some bland food (ideally boiled chicken and rice or pasta) near to them, they may not want to eat or drink for a while, or they may gulp down any food and water they are given. It is important not to let them eat or drink too much, little and often is the best way to help them settle and avoid bloat. The most important thing is to go at the dogs pace; at this point, the dog may start to explore if it is feeling confident, or it may choose to stay in its bed/crate for the next 24 hours and sleep.

Do not take them out into the garden for the first 24 hours, they may seem settled and calm, but anything can startle them and encourage them to bolt or escape. Puppy pads near to their bed will be helpful during this time, and will encourage the dog to move around to do their business. If the dog is particularly nervous or doesn’t seem to be settling, it may be good for you to sleep downstairs with him/her. This gives the dog company overnight and allows them the opportunity to investigate you while you are sleeping.

It is important to remember that everything in the home is brand new to the dog. They have never seen stairs, sofas, kitchens, etc. They will also never have seen electricals. The sound of the television may terrify them, or the noise of a kettle boiling might make them anxious. Be mindful of these things, and slowly introduce these experiences to the dog.

Another important note: your dog may smell pretty awful! This is normal, they have spent around 3 days on transport and unfortunately some of this time is spent sitting in their own mess between resting points for the van. You will be tempted to bathe your dog, but we advise against this until the dog is fully settled and trusts you completely. Until the dog is calm in their environment, do not attempt any grooming. Once they have settled, and are accepting of touch, you may be able to use a warm flannel to help clean off some dirt, and they may accept a brush. Some will not accept either of these things for a while I’m afraid.

First Day and Beyond…

Provide your dog with a safe, comfortable resting space. Ideally more than one to choose from. An open, covered crate works well as it is dark and provides a safe retreat for the dog. Make sure that their crate door is secured open, so they do not become accidentally closed in or out. Ensure the bed area is not in a very busy location of the house, but also not isolated. A quiet corner where the dog can see everyone but is not the centre of attention works best. Ensure there is fresh water available near the dog’s resting area, some dogs are too frightened and stressed to move from this area and might not be brave enough to venture to take a drink. Do not force your dog to drink, however if you are sure they have not touched water for 24 hours then contact your vet.

Offer some bland food initially; boiled chicken and rice or pasta tend to be a good option. This will help to settle their stomach after the stressful journey. While they are eating, it is important to give them space and do not interrupt them, they may feel the need to guard their food as they may have had to in the past and do not yet know they are safe. Eventually, when they have been integrated with other pets in the home, make sure they have their own space to eat away from the other animals, this will avoid any issues with food guarding or stealing. After a few days, their stomachs should have settled down, and you can begin introducing their own dog food. Begin slowly, adding a small amount of their food to their chicken and rice meal. Slowly increase the amount you are adding in, until their meal is entirely their own dog food. Keep an eye on their poos for the next few days to ensure they are happy on their new food.

If the dog is feeling confident, you may be able to use a slip lead and take them out into the garden to encourage them to use the toilet. If they are not comfortable with a slip lead, it is advisable to wait longer before taking them outside. Toileting in the home is not ideal, but you should never chastise your dog for having an accident. Treat them as if they are a puppy, learning everything from scratch. If the dog is particularly nervous and shy, the best thing to do is keep calm and be patient. Go slow and most importantly go at your dog’s pace. Give them plenty of time and space. The easiest way to make friends with a nervous dog is to completely ignore them.

If you notice your dog is struggling when alone, do not leave your dog to cry it out if they are distressed. Comfort them, let them know you are there and teach them to enjoy spending time alone slowly. Every time you leave the room, leave your dog with some treats, and do not make a big fuss when you return. Use stair gates to prevent your dog from following you everywhere, but always ensure that if they are being left alone it is a predictor of a tasty treat/fun toy coming. It is much easier to prevent a problem, than to fix one, so try to get your dog used to spending small periods of time alone from the outset. Get them used to the routine of you leaving the house, for example, put your shoes on but don’t leave, pick up your keys but don’t leave, etc.

A routine is important for a dog, it helps them to feel calm and safe as they can predict their environment. Create set feeding times for the dog, and always feed them in the same place. Begin a toileting routine, taking trips to the garden at similar times each day (e.g., first thing in the morning, after each meal, before bed).

You MUST NOT take your dog outside of the boundary of your home for the first 48 hours. This is in order to comply with DEFRA quarantine regulations.

FLEA & WORM TREATMENT- your dog will have received flea and worm treatment no more than 48 hours before leaving Romania. However, if you think they have fleas, please do not repeat the treatment, but contact your vet for advice. You can also use herbal or alternative therapies. Facebook groups are an excellent resource for suggestions.

After Week One…

However confident your dog may seem in the home; we recommend not to take them out for a walk for at least the first 2 weeks. These first couple of weeks are important in creating a bond with your dog. Instead, use this time to work on housetraining, further confidence, harness and lead desensitisation, traffic noise desensitisation, recall and most importantly building a strong, positive bond using fun and games. For the more nervous dogs, be prepared that they may not go on walks for months. Avoid having visitors for at least 2 weeks whilst your dog is settling. When having visitors around for the first time, ensure the dog is safely secured away from the door when they enter, and always allow the dog to choose whether it wants to meet the new person. Ask the visitor to sit down quietly. The dog may choose to come over and have a sniff, or it may decide it wants to stay in its own safe space, either is fine.

Once the Dog is Settled…

Notice there isn’t a time frame on this section – this will be different for every dog, and you will know when the time is right. Some dogs may arrive and settle pretty quickly, others may take weeks or months to be able to interact with you. Once they are ready, and you think the time is right to introduce other resident pets, ensure you have some provisions in place to keep all animals safe. We advise the use of a stair gate to help with interactions, as this gives each animal their own space and room to retreat if they need to. To begin, try to scent swap; perhaps allow each animal to sleep on an old towel, and then swap these towels so they can familiarise themselves with the scent of the other.

Meeting children in the home:

  • Children should be supervised at all times. This is for their own safety.
  • Try not to let children get too excited around the dog, especially in those first few days/weeks. The dog may just want to be quiet.
  • Ideally a child should let the dog come to them and then they can give quiet fuss.
  • As the dog relaxes children will be able to be more proactive and play with the dog. Patience and understanding is the key.
  • Use baby gates to keep children and dogs separate if you are not able to supervise interactions.
  • Children should be told to respect the dog’s space when it is asleep, and not to approach it when it is eating.

Meeting the resident dog(s):

  • If possible, allow the dog to meet outside. Preferably on neutral ground, but if the new dog is not yet able to go on walks, then the garden is the next best thing. It is best to have the dogs on a lead, and to allow them to interact little and often at first. Do not force them to interact. Keep the meeting relaxed, and praise both dogs if they are behaving well together.
  • If you are not able to meet outside, meeting either side of a stairgate is fine. It is still advisable to have both dogs on a lead, so you can remove them from the interaction if they become agitated. Allow them to sniff each other and gauge their reactions. If they are happy or unbothered by each other, you can try the meeting without the use of the stairgate so they can interact more freely.
  • You may need to repeat these meetings multiple times to help the dogs get used to each other, or you may notice the dogs get on well already. Regardless of how well they are interacting, do not leave the dogs alone together until you can fully trust their relationship.

Meeting the resident cat(s) or small furries:

  • If you have any resident cats or small furry animals, we will have tested the dog in the shelter with our cats, however it is important to remember that was a totally different environment, and the dog is likely to be confused and unpredictable still.
  • Ensure the cat has an escape route, to a safe area where the dog cannot get to. Using a stairgate is a great way to do this, as a cat can usually fit between the bars, and will be able to retreat upstairs to a higher ground away from the dog if they feel scared.
  • Have the dog on a lead for the first interaction, this eliminates any possibility of the dog chasing the cat.
  • Do not force an interaction, but allow the animals to move freely and sniff each other if they choose to. Praise both of them if they are calm and behave well.
  • You may need to repeat these meetings multiple times to help the dog and cat get used to each other, or you may notice they get on well already. Regardless of how well they are interacting, do not leave the animals alone together until you can fully trust their relationship.

Getting Ready for Their First Walk:

  • DO NOT take your dog for a walk outside of the home for at least 2 weeks, maybe longer depending on how nervous your dog is and how comfortable it is with a harness and lead.
    When you feel the dog is ready to go out on their first walks outside of the home and garden, make sure they have a well-fitted harness on, a strong lead, and a slip lead for added precaution. Use only short leads, DO NOT use an extendable lead. And use a wrist strap to attach one, or both leads to your wrist. If your dog is not comfortable having a harness put on, or walking with the slip lead, you will need to work on this before taking the dog out for a walk. The next section in this guide will give you some support in getting your dog used to the harness. For the first few walks, always walk directly from your home (as opposed to driving somewhere for a walk), this helps the dog to get their bearings of their new environment and learn the area. For the first few weeks walk the same route. Try to walk at a quiet time, where there will be little distractions for the dog, to ensure they do not get overwhelmed. Maybe a short walk around the block, or up and down the road a couple of times. Slowly increase the length of time you are out for on each walk. Do not force your dog to go for a walk if they are nervous.
  • By law, your dog should wear a collar and ID tag when in public. This should have your surname, contact number, and address. Do not put the dog’s name on the tag.

Things to Remember

The first few weeks or even months may be incredibly stressful for both you, your family, and your dog. It is an adjustment period for everyone. Remember to take time to yourself to relax; if you are stressed you will be less likely to make logical decisions. Whilst it is hard work, it is incredibly rewarding! By adopting you are not only saving your dog, but also making space in rescue to save another.

Please ensure that communication with Stray2Me is open and any issues are expressed with the adoptions team who can support you. We have a wealth of knowledge between us, from personal experience, and experience of our previous adopters. We also have a wonderful behaviourist, Sam, who is a volunteer with us and is available to support you if you need her.

You are not alone. There are many people out there who have experienced all sorts of different issues. Facebook groups can be a good source of support. We suggest joining the Canine Enrichment group and Meesh Masters Romanian Rescue Dogs Community & Resource Units.

All of the above may be completely inappropriate to your particular situation. It is a guide only. It will be for you to judge what your dog needs, based on your own experience and understanding of dog ownership. Basically, each dog is different and will respond to their traumas differently. What they all need, however, is patience and understanding. Yes, they need love, but don’t rush that. Show them patience and you will reap the rewards. It will be a fantastic voyage of discovery getting to know your dog(s).

Toilet Training Your New Rescue

Puppy Toilet Training

When it comes to puppy toileting, they have as much control over their bladder as human babies do. Puppies will have the odd accident inside the home and when they do, it is vital to remember that it is not their fault, that they are not doing it out of spite or plotting revenge etc. They simply don’t know any differently yet. So we, as their guardians, need to help show them what is appropriate, just as we would show a young human infant where and how.

Granted it is not in the exactly the same, but we wouldn’t rub our child’s noses in their diapers or hit them or put them in their room for going to the toilet in their diapers, so why would we do that to an animal?

Below are some tips to help you help your puppy:

  • Ignore the accidents made inside the home – no vocal sounds, no staring, no hitting, no rubbing the dog’s nose in its mess. Instead try to remain calm, and clean up the mess.
  • Take your puppy outside often. – After each meal/drink, after a play session, after training session, after a nap/sleep and then every 20 minutes. You’ll soon catch on to your pup’s toileting routine and signals of wanting to go, and as your puppy develops so will their toilet routine.
  • Have a massive celebration every time your puppy goes to the toilet outside, let her know that what she did and where she went was the best decision she made. Give her lots of praise, tell her what a good girl she is, lots of fuss and play.

Soon your puppy will have toilet training down to the T.

Toilet Training the Nervous Adult Dog

Many of the dogs arriving directly from Romania will not have been toilet trained, especially if they have spent time on the streets or caged in a shelter. Training an adult dog is essentially the same as training a puppy – routine, patience, kindness.

  • Ignore the accidents made inside the home – No vocal sounds, no staring, no hitting, no rubbing the dog’s nose in the mess. Instead try to remain calm, and clean up the mess.
  • Take your dog outside often to begin with – after eating, after playing, after training, when they wake up after resting.
  • If your dog is not nervous, then you can go into the garden with your dog and praise profusely once they have toileted. Perhaps give them a high value treat as a reward. Remember to let them finish toileting BEFORE you praise and/or treat.
  • Your adult dog may be too nervous to go to the toilet if you are watching, so try to create a routine whereby they eat their meal and then you encourage them straight into the garden. Don’t go with them, open the door and leave it open whilst they are out there.
  • Try to watch them from a distance and if you can see that they have toileted, you can meet them on their way back to the door and give them quiet, gentle praise (if they are happy for you to approach them), or treat, perhaps with a piece of cheese, liver or a dried sprat.
  • If you are calm and consistent, they will soon learn to associate toileting outside with a reward.
  • If your dog just isn’t toileting outside, keep the paper towels used to clear up, or something the dog has toileted on that has the smell, and move this into the garden, to encourage them by smell.
  • You may have to leave the door open for several months, or at least until your dog no longer feels nervous or likely to feel trapped away from a safe space.
  • You may also have to accept that there will be times when your dog simply will not go outside, for example if it is raining heavily. Puppy pads can be invaluable!

Please, also feel free to engage the service of our trusted partner www.smallandmightypets.com/ may you need any further support.

Introducing Your Dog to Their New Harness

Your step by step guide to introducing your dog to a new harness for the very first time.

The first and foremost step is choosing the right harness for your dog. With so many to choose from it’s easy to fall into the trap of selecting the wrong type for your dog. Even the most well recommended harnesses may not be suitable for your dog as every dog is built differently, so let’s think of fitting a harness as like fitting a pair of shoes, they have to be the right size and be comfortable. The last thing we want is any pinching or rubbing. When selecting a harness, the key point to remember is ensuring that it’s a Y-shaped Harness. Y-shaped harnesses fit over the shoulders and don’t restrict movement whereas most other harness do, which can then affect mobility and create problems later down the road. Next is space under the arms, are the straps rubbing under the arms? Ensure that the strap is a good inch away from the armpit so that it doesn’t cause any rubbing. And finally ensure that the last waist strap isn’t around the tummy or on the last rib as this can cause a lot of pain to your dog. If you do have that design, then just check and make sure that the majority of the pressure isn’t on that last strap, but more on the middle strap and front part of the harness.

If you are unsure what a Y-shaped harness looks like, take a look at the makes such as T-Touch Harness, Perfect Fit Harness, Ruffwear Harness and the 3 Peaks Harness to give you an idea.

What you Need:

  • Tasty treats – sausages, ham, cheese, chicken etcetera
  • Y-shaped harness
  • A marker – such as a clicker if already clicker trained, or a word such as ‘Yes’ or ‘Good’ to use to mark the behaviour you want.

Steps:

  1. If possible, sit on the floor with your dog. Have a small pot of treats next to you and the harness.
  2. To help build your dog’s confidence around the new strange harness you’ll first want to pop a treat in your hand and place the headpiece of the harness through your hand – so it would look as though you’ll be pulling the harness over your hand and straight over your dog’s head (but not just yet). When your dog reaches out towards you hand, mark and reward. Repeat this 5 more times and then rest/play a game. Repeat this for 3 days or longer if you feel that your dog needs it.
  3. After your 3 days and your dog reaches out towards you hand more comfortably, you can now start to move the head piece over your dog’s head. Mark once on and reward, and then remove the head piece, mark once removed and reward. Repeat this 5 more times and then rest/play a game. Repeat this for 3 days or more if you feel that your dog needs it.
  4. Once your dog is comfortable with having the head piece go over their head, we can now move onto the middle section. Repeat steps 1 and 2 in one smooth movement so it would look like: hold harness, reward, pop the harness over the head, reward, and then attach the middle section, mark and reward then release and remove. Repeat this 5 more times rest/play. Repeat over 3 days.

Almost There…

  1. When your dog is feeling more comfortable with the middle section being attached, we can now start to put the harness on with more flow, so it should start to look a little bit like this: – head piece on- mark and reward, middle piece on mark and reward. Now we can start to leave the harness on for a bit longer, allow your dog to play, and explore around the house.

If your dog is feeling quite comfortable with this, try and attach a lead to the harness, and just have a wander around the house. After a short time in the harness, remove and allow them a bit of a break from the harness before repeating. Try and aim to repeat this action 5 more times and over a course of 3 days.

  1. When your dog is feeling more comfortable with step 5, it is now time to take a road test outside. If you can, pop the harness on your dog in one swift movement, rewarding your dog after the harness is fully attached. Pop the lead on, and walk around the house for a little bit and then venture outside for 20 minutes or for as long as your dog feels comfortable and safe to do so. Repeat this 3x a day, adding an extra 5 minutes each day if you can.

Remember this is only a guideline as every dog is different some may whizz through this without any issues, whilst others may need to spend a little bit more time on each step.

If you have any questions, please contact our team at [email protected]

Please, also feel free to engage the service of our trusted partner www.smallandmightypets.com/ may you need any further support.

Safe Feeding: Fruits & Vegetables

CAN BE EATEN
Apples Apples  Yes, dogs can eat apples. Apples are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, as well as fiber for your dog. They are low in protein and fat, making them the perfect snack for senior dogs. Just be sure to remove the seeds and core first. Try them frozen for an icy warm weather snack. Read More Banana Bananas  Yes, dogs can eat bananas. In moderation, bananas are a great low-calorie treat for dogs. They’re high in potassium, vitamins, biotin, fiber, and copper. They are low in cholesterol and sodium, but because of their high sugar content, bananas should be given as a treat, not part of your dog’s regular diet. Read More
Cantaloupe Cantaloupe  Yes, cantaloupe is OK for dogs. Cantaloupe is packed with nutrients, low in calories, and a great source of water and fiber. It is, however, high in sugar, so should be shared in moderation, especially for dogs who are overweight or have diabetes. Read More Carrots Carrots  Yes, dogs can eat carrots. Carrots are an excellent low-calorie snack that is high in fiber and beta-carotene, which produces vitamin A. Plus, crunching on this orange veggie is great for your dog’s teeth. Read More
Blueberries Blueberries  Yes, dogs can eat blueberries. Blueberries are a superfood rich in antioxidants, which prevent cell damage in humans and canines alike. They’re packed with fiber and phytochemicals as well. Read More Brussel Sprouts Brussel Sprouts.  Yes, dogs can eat Brussel Sprouts. Brussel Sprouts are loaded with nutrients and antioxidants that are great for humans and dogs, alike. Don’t over feed them to your dog, however, because they can cause lots of gas. Read More
Celery Celery  Yes, celery is OK for dogs to eat. In addition to vitamins A, B, and C, this crunchy green snack contains the nutrients needed to promote a healthy heart and even fight cancer. As if that wasn’t enough, celery is also known to doggy breath fresher. Read More Cucumbers Cucumbers  Yes, dogs can eat cucumbers. Cucumbers are especially good for overweight dogs, as they hold little to no carbohydrates, fats, or oils and they can even boost energy levels. They’re loaded with vitamins K, C, and B1, as well as potassium, copper, magnesium, and biotin. Read More
Green beans Green beans  Yes, dogs can eat green beans. Chopped, steamed, raw, or canned –- all types of green beans are safe for dogs to eat, as long as they are plain. Green beans are full of important vitamins and minerals and they’re also full of fiber and low in calories. Read More Mango Mango  Yes, dogs can eat mangoes. This sweet summer treat is packed with four, yes four different vitamins: vitamins A, B6, C, and E. They also have potassium and both beta-carotene and alpha-carotene. Just remember, as with most fruits, remove the hard pith first, as it contains small amounts of cyanide and can become a choking hazard. Read More
Pears Pears  Yes, dogs can eat pears. Pears are a great snack because they’re high in copper, vitamins C and K, and fiber. It’s been suggested that eating the fruit can reduce the risk of having a stroke by 50 percent. Just be sure to cut pears into bite-size chunks and remove the pit and seeds first, as the seeds contain traces of cyanide. Read More Peas Peas  Yes, dogs can eat peas. Green peas, specifically: snow peas, sugar snap peas, and garden or English peas are all OK for dogs. Peas have several vitamins, minerals, and are rich in protein and high in fiber. You can feed your dog fresh, frozen, or thawed peas, but do not give him canned peas, which have a lot of added sodium. Read More
Pineapple Pineapple  Yes, pineapples are OK for dogs to eat. A few chunks of pineapple is a great sweet treat for dogs, as long as the prickly outside is removed first. The tropical fruit is full of vitamins, minerals, and fiber. It also contains bromelain, an enzyme that makes it easier for dogs to absorb proteins. Read More Strawberries Strawberries  Yes, it is OK for dogs to eat strawberries. Strawberries are full of fiber and vitamin C. Along with that, they also contain an enzyme that can help whiten your dog’s teeth as he or she eats them. They are high in sugar though, so be sure to give them in moderation. Read More
Sweet potatoes Sweet potatoes  Yes, dogs can eat sweet potatoes. Sweet potatoes are packed with nutrients, including fiber, beta carotene, and vitamins B-6 and C. Just like with regular potatoes, only give your dog washed, peeled, cooked, and unseasoned sweet potatoes that have cooled down, and definitely avoid sugary sweet potato pies and casseroles.
NOT TO BE EATEN
Tomatoes Tomatoes  No, dogs should probably avoid tomatoes. While the ripened fruit of the tomato plant (the red part humans normally eat) is generally considered safe for dogs, the green parts of the plant contain a toxic substance called solanine. While a dog would need to eat a large amount for it to make him or her sick, it’s better to skip tomatoes all together just to be safe. Read More Onions Onions  No, dogs should not eat onions. Onions, leeks, and chives are part of a family of plants called Allium that is poisonous to most pets, especially cats. Eating onions can cause your dog’s red blood cells to rupture, and can also cause vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, and nausea. Poisoning from onions is more serious in Japanese breeds of dogs such as Akitas and Shiba Inus, but all dogs are very susceptible to it. Read More
Mushrooms Mushrooms  No, dogs should avoid mushrooms. Wild mushrooms can be toxic for dogs. While only 50 to 100 of the 50,000 mushroom species worldwide are known to be toxic, the ones that are can really hurt your dog or even lead to death. Washed mushrooms from the supermarket could be OK, but it’s better to be safe than sorry; skip out on the fungi all together. Read More Grapes Grapes  No, dogs should not eat grapes. Grapes and raisins have both proved to be very toxic for dogs no matter the dog’s breed, sex, or age. In fact, grapes are so toxic that they can lead to acute sudden kidney failure. Definitely skip this dangerous treat. Read More
Cherries Cherries  No, dogs shouldn’t eat cherries. With the exception of the fleshy part around the seed, cherry plants contain cyanide and are toxic to dogs. Cyanide disrupts cellular oxygen transport, which means that your dog’s blood cells can’t get enough oxygen. If your dog eats cherries, be on the lookout for dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums, as these may be signs of cyanide poisoning. Read More Avocado  Avocado   No, dogs should not eat avocado. While avocado may be a healthy snack for dog owners, it should not be given to dogs at all. The pit, skin, and leaves of avocados contain persin, a toxin that often causes vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. The fleshy inside of the fruit doesn’t have as much persin as the rest of the plant, but it is still too much for dogs to handle. Read More
Asparagus Asparagus  No, dogs shouldn’t eat asparagus. While asparagus isn’t necessarily unsafe for dogs, there’s really no point in giving it to them. It’s too tough to be eaten raw, and by the time you cook it down so it’s soft enough for dogs to eat, asparagus loses the nutrients it contains. If you really want to share a veggie, something more beneficial is probably best.
CAN BE EATEN BUT CAUTION
Broccoli Broccoli  Yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to eat in very small quantities and is best served as an occasional treat. It is high in fiber and vitamin C and low in fat. However, Broccoli florets contain isothiocyanates, which can cause mild-to-potentially-severe gastric irritation in some dogs. Furthermore, broccoli stalks have been known to cause obstruction in the esophagus. Read More Cranberries Cranberries  Yes, cranberries are OK for dogs to eat. Both cranberries and dried cranberries are safe to feed to dogs in small quantities. Whether your dog will like this tart treat is another question. Either way, moderation is important when feeding cranberries to dogs, as with any treat, as too many cranberries can lead to an upset stomach. Read More
Oranges Oranges  Yes, dogs can eat oranges. Oranges are fine for dogs to eat, according to veterinarians. They are also an excellent source of vitamin C, potassium, and fiber, and in small quantities can serve as tasty treats for your dog. Vets do, however, recommend tossing the peel and just giving your dog the inside of the orange, minus the seeds, as the peel is much more rough on their digestive systems. Read More Peaches Peaches  Yes, peaches are OK for dogs to eat. Small amounts of cut-up peaches are a great source of fiber and vitamin A, and can even help fight infections, but just like cherries, the pit contains cyanide. As long as you completely cut around the pit first, fresh peaches can be a great summer treat – just not canned peaches, as they usually contain high amounts of sugary syrups. Read More
Raspberries Raspberries  Yes, dogs can eat raspberries. Raspberries are fine in moderation. They contain antioxidants that are great for dogs. They’re low in sugar and calories, but high in fiber, manganese, and vitamin C. Raspberries are especially good for senior dogs because they have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help take pain and pressure from joints. However, they do contain slight amounts of the toxin Xylitol, so limit your dog to less than a cup of raspberries at a time. Read More Spinach Spinach  Yes, dogs can eat spinach, but it’s not one of the top vegetables you’ll want to be sharing with you pup. Spinach is very high in oxalic acid, which blocks the body’s ability to absorb calcium and can lead to kidney damage. While your dog would probably have to eat a very large amount of spinach to have this problem, it might be best to go with another vegetable. Read More
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